Family Holiday in Zagreb and Split

On Friday, Jane and I took a two-hour train ride from Ljubljana to Zagreb. We walked a few short blocks to the Canopy by Hilton, where we met up with Kyle, who had flown in from Dulles via Munich the night before.

The three of us headed out to explore Zagreb and enjoyed a wonderful lunch at Salo. After lunch, we returned toward the hotel to meet Lela and Avery, who had flown in from Milan. The five of us then spent the afternoon exploring more of the city. That evening, we had dinner in the main restaurant and bar district, where a meal featuring plenty of grilled meats seemed fitting for Croatia. On our walk back to the hotel, we came across an outdoor dance event. Some of the couples were incredibly talented and a joy to watch.

Saturday was Statehood Day in Croatia, a national holiday commemorating the constitution of the first democratically elected multi-party Parliament on May 30, 1990. As we approached Ban Jelačić Square, Zagreb’s main square, traditional dancers were performing. Soon afterward, two helicopters flew low over the city center, creating such a downdraft that debris and loose items were flying everywhere below. Because of the holiday, many stores were closed, and the large market near the square was much smaller than usual.

We then made our way to Zagreb’s Upper Town, the city’s historic district, and visited the Museum of Broken Relationships, which was both fascinating and well worth seeing. Just down the street is St. Mark’s Church, famous for its colorful roof displaying the coats of arms of the Triune Kingdom of Croatia, Dalmatia, and Slavonia, along with that of the City of Zagreb. After more walking, we stopped at a café to enjoy some cold beverages.

Later, we returned to the hotel to meet Hannah and John, who had arrived from JFK via Munich. We soon headed back out and enjoyed a wonderful late lunch of döner kebabs. Afterward, we found a table at Harat’s Pub to watch the UEFA Champions League Final between Paris Saint-Germain and Arsenal. We watched the first half before heading back toward the hotel. Along the way, we stumbled upon a professional three-on-three basketball tournament taking place in one of the city squares. We watched the second half of a game, but the highlight came afterward when the Dunking Devils, a world-renowned acrobatic basketball dunk team, put on an entertaining performance. Back at the hotel, we gathered in the lobby bar to watch the remainder of the match and see PSG capture the Champions League title.

On Sunday, the seven of us joined a walking tour of Zagreb that again focused on the Upper Town. Our guide was both entertaining and informative. She provided a brief history of Croatia and discussed the current political situation. We also learned that Zagreb is the birthplace of the kravata, which eventually evolved into the modern necktie. At noon, we watched the firing of the Grič Cannon. The tour concluded outside Zagreb Cathedral, where a devastating 2020 earthquake caused so much damage that one of the cathedral’s spires had to be removed. It sounds as though the restoration project will continue for many years.

After the tour, we had lunch and celebrated the medical school graduations of Lela and Avery, which were taking place simultaneously back in Worcester, Massachusetts. Kyle and I then took a mile-and-a-half walk to pick up the van I had rented for our trip from Zagreb to Split. The four-hour drive passed quickly as we traveled almost entirely on the highway and entertained ourselves with various car games.

Our Airbnb in Split is in an excellent location just minutes from the Riva, the city’s famous waterfront promenade. On Sunday evening, we enjoyed a fun late dinner along the waterfront at Restaurant Family.

Monday morning, we took a guided tour of Diocletian’s Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site originally built as the retirement residence of the Roman Emperor Diocletian. Today, the palace walls contain a maze of streets filled with shops, restaurants, and homes. Highlights included the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, Peristyle Square, and the underground cellars.

After the tour, we found a café where several of us enjoyed cinnamon rolls with our coffee. Kyle accompanied me to return the van while the others finished lunch. In the afternoon, we split up to pursue different activities. Hannah, John, and Kyle walked along the waterfront; Jane enjoyed a leisurely stroll on the Riva; and Lela, Avery, and I hiked to the top of Marjan Hill. On our way back, the three of us stopped for some excellent gelato.

The seven of us did a FaceTime call with my mother as she was celebrating her 87th birthday. That evening, the newly minted doctors treated us to dinner at Articok, where we enjoyed a wonderful meal and outstanding service. After dinner, we wandered through the palace grounds before making our way back to the Airbnb, where we spent the rest of the evening playing cards together.