We had a wonderful time attending the first weekend of Jazz Fest 2026. Back in December, I reserved a five-bedroom house on Airbnb, and it turned out to be the perfect base for the 10 of us – Jane and me; Karen and Jeff; Katie and Doug; Gabrielle and David; and Allie and Dana. It was really special staying under one roof and being able to walk to the festival each day.
Jane and I flew down with Allie and Dana on Wednesday. When we arrived, Jane and Dana headed to the grocery store while Allie and I waited outside for about 20 minutes until we could get in at 1:00 p.m. After settling in and putting everything away, we walked over to Island of Salvation, a voodoo shop and art gallery. From there, we hopped on a couple of streetcars and made our way to the Garden District. After a drink at a bar, we went to Shaya for dinner and enjoyed a great Middle Eastern meal.
After dinner, we returned to the house, where Katie and Doug had arrived. David showed up a couple of hours later, and Karen and Jeff got in after we had gone to sleep.
The walk from our Airbnb to the entrance of the Fair Grounds Race Course is about 1.4 miles. We kicked off Thursday at Jazz Fest in Economy Hall, enjoying traditional New Orleans jazz with Norbert Susemihi’s New Orleans All-Stars. We then made our way to the Jazz & Heritage Stage to catch some of the High Steppers Brass Band before heading to the Fais Do-Do Stage for Jeffrey Broussard & The Creole Cowboys. Jane and I even managed to get a little dancing in.
The first big act we saw on Thursday was Maggie Koerner. The set started 15 minutes late, and while it was good, it wasn’t particularly memorable. Next, we headed to the Blues Tent, where Kenny Neal delivered a scorching performance.
For nostalgia’s sake, I went over to the Festival Stage and grabbed a spot up front for Cowboy Mouth. Their schtick is getting a bit old, and I think I may be done with them (sorry, Kyle).
We wrapped up the day with a few songs from Raye and then returned to the Blues Tent to see legendary blues harp player Charlie Musselwhite. After hearing about Stephen Marley’s set in Congo Square, I did feel a bit of FOMO.
After the fest, we headed back to the Airbnb and hung out in the backyard while enjoying a New Orleans delicacy, Popeyes.
With a Smoothie King just a block away, many of us started Friday with smoothies. Our first stop at Jazz Fest was the Blues Tent for Parlor Greens. After their set, I went to the Fais Do-Do Stage to catch Loose Cattle, whose cowpunk sound I really enjoyed. In fact, Jeff and I ran into the band a couple of hours later and told them how much we liked their set.
We stuck around Fais Do-Do for zydeco sweetheart Rosie Ledet. I then caught a few songs by Billy Iuso at the Lagniappe Stage (which I still can’t pronounce).
I wrapped up Friday at Jazz Fest with The Dirty Dozen Brass Band and then caught Lorde’s full set with Allie and Dana. She drew a huge twenty-something crowd. While I wasn’t familiar with much of her music, I really enjoyed the show.
That night, Doug, David, and I went to the Howlin’ Wolf to see Shakedown Citi. I broke one of my unwritten rules by seeing a tribute band, but this New York City based Grateful Dead tribute act was excellent. We left before the second set so David could get back to the Airbnb, as Gabrielle was arriving late Friday night.
Saturday at Jazz Fest was way overcrowded. We waited about 30 minutes just to get through security, and the crowds only got worse as the day went on. Food lines were long, and by the time the headliners came on, there was barely any room to move. There were times, that it felt dangerous walking to get to a stage.
We started the day in the Blues Tent with 85-year-old Little Freddie King Blues Band. Later, Dana, Doug, and I met near the front of the Festival Stage for Samantha Fish, one of our favorite Jazz Fest discoveries from a few years ago who has really become a standout performer.
On Hannah’s recommendation, I went to see Jason Isbell and the 400 Unit at the Gentilly Stage. I stayed for about half the set before heading to Congo Square to catch reggae legend Burning Spear.
The last act I saw on Saturday was Stevie Nicks. I managed to find Karen and Jeff in the sea of people. Between the crowds and a bit of rain (and borrowing Karen’s umbrella), I didn’t make it to the Blues Tent to see Rhiannon Giddens.
After the fest, we all met up at Liuzza’s for Bloody Marys, margaritas, and beers. After a couple of hours hanging outside, we headed to a nearby Mexican restaurant. Doug, David, Jeff, and I walked back to the Airbnb, stopping for road beers at a bar across from the Fair Grounds entrance.
As is tradition, we started Sunday in the Gospel Tent. Half of us then walked over to the Gentilly Stage to see People Museum. I’d seen them once before at Jazz Fest, they’re a bit of an acquired taste.
I spent much of Sunday at the Fais Do-Do Stage, catching Jambalaya Cajun Band, followed by Zachary Richard and longtime Jazz Fest favorite Sunpie and the Louisiana Sunspots. Sunpie mentioned it was his 32nd year playing Jazz Fest, coincidentally, our first Jazz Fest was 32 years ago.
I also made it to the Jazz Tent for a tribute to John Coltrane, which was excellent.
After Sunpie, a few of us headed to Economy Hall, where Jane and I got in some pre-wedding dancing practice while Tuba Skinny played.
The highlight of the day, and the entire weekend, was David Byrne. I don’t remember the Gentilly Stage ever being so crowded; we watched from the middle of the track. A few years ago, Jane, Hannah, John, and I saw his American Utopia show on Broadway, and this performance had a similar vibe, with musicians and singers constantly moving in a tightly choreographed production. Not everyone saw Byrne, some opted for Rod Stewart, which led to some good-natured banter later that night back at the Airbnb.
Once again, we ended the day at Liuzza’s, where Gabrielle was mesmerized by Gradu, who played mostly ’90s covers.
Jazz Fest is about more than just the music. It’s the endless variety of food, the people-watching, the parades, and the ability to meet up with friends in a sea of tens of thousands (cell phones have certainly made that easier). Most importantly, it’s about sharing the experience with friends you’ve known for decades. At this point, the music is almost secondary, the real reason to keep coming back is the time spent together and the laughs along the way.
Traveling Walters 