Mother City

Cape Town is called the Mother City because it was the site of the first European settlement in South Africa. We’ve just spent an amazing five days here—coincidentally, the longest we’ve stayed in any one location on this entire journey.

Thursday: History and Culture

After a delicious breakfast at our hotel, we visited the District Six Museum. District Six was a thriving inner-city neighborhood until 1966, when the apartheid government declared it a “whites-only” area and forcibly removed over 60,000 residents. Though the neighborhood was never redeveloped, the vast majority of homes and buildings were demolished. Our docent, a former resident who was forced to relocate, shared his personal story, making the visit even more impactful.

In the afternoon, we took a walking tour of Bo-Kaap, a historic Muslim neighborhood known for its vibrantly painted houses. Many homes had “Free Palestine” or “Free Gaza” messages painted on them, reflecting the community’s strong sense of activism. Our guide said that since the announced cease fire, many of the messages have been painted over.

Afterward, we walked to the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, a massive, bustling area filled with restaurants, hotels, shops, and live music. We stopped at a wine bar in the Time-Out Market, where we each had a glass of rosé, then had dinner at Harbor House, a waterfront restaurant. Jane loved her oysters and mussels, while I enjoyed the grilled octopus.

Friday: Robben Island & Table Mountain

We took the 9:00 AM ferry to Robben Island, the infamous prison where Nelson Mandela was held for 27 years. The tour began with a bus ride around the island, where our guide pointed out key sites. Then we met Monde, prisoner number 81/77, who was imprisoned there from 1977-1982. 81/77 means that he was the 81st prisoner that entered Robben Island in 1977. Standing in his former cell, he described the harsh conditions—from the meager meals of porridge to the grueling labor in the limestone quarry. His firsthand account was deeply moving.

Before leaving, we visited Mandela’s cell which is housed in a different building. Our return ferry was delayed due to mechanical issues, so the island supervisor took us to see the old prison, which ended up being a fascinating bonus.

Back at the V&A Waterfront, we took an Uber to Table Mountain and rode the aerial Cableway to the top. We hiked the flat summit, taking in stunning views of Cape Town, Devil’s Peak, and the Peninsula. It was easily one of our favorite experiences.

For dinner, we went to Hussar Grill in Camps Bay, a highly recommended spot that did not disappoint.

Saturday: Cape Peninsula Adventure

Jane hired a guide, Fayicsl, to take us around the Cape Peninsula Region. Our journey included:

• Driving through Sea Point and Camps Bay

• A boat trip from Hout Bay to Seal Island, where we saw thousands of seals

• A scenic drive along Chapman’s Peak Drive

• A stop at Boulders Beach Penguin Colony in Simon’s Town to see African penguins

• A visit to the Cape of Good Hope, where we climbed to Cape Point

• A ride on the funicular to the Old Cape Point Lighthouse

After a late lunch in Simon’s Town, we drove along the eastern side of the peninsula and ended the day at Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens. We walked through the lush gardens before heading back to the hotel, where we had a light snack in the M Club.

Sunday: Wine Tasting in the Cape Winelands

At 9:00 AM, we were picked up by our guide, Juan, along with two other couples—one from Japan (living in Uganda) and another from Northeast Ohio (which, of course, led to a deep dive into all things Cleveland).

Our wine stops:

1. Muratie Wine Estate (Stellenbosch, est. 1699) – Jane’s favorite, with stunning grounds

2. Le Pommier Wine Estate – Chocolate and wine pairing, followed by a delightful lunch

3. Eikehof (Franschhoek) – A personal tasting with Francois, the owner and winemaker. Bonus: We got to feed Joey the ostrich!

4. Fairview – A wine and cheese pairing, where we discovered our favorite wine of the day: Pinotage, a uniquely South African varietal celebrating its 100th anniversary this year

After our first glass of wine at 10:00 AM, by the time we returned to the hotel at 6:00 PM, we were officially done for the day.

Monday: Apartheid to Freedom

For our final Cape Town experience, we took the Apartheid to Freedom Walking Tour. Our guide gave an insightful account of:

• How apartheid laws were enacted and enforced

• The role of Cecil Rhodes, whose wealth from diamond and gold mining shaped South Africa’s history

• Mandela’s leadership in preventing civil war during the transition to democracy

Reflections on Cape Town

Cape Town and South Africa are far from perfect. It’s been thirty years since apartheid ended, but economic disparities remain staggering. On the way to the airport, we passed rows of tin shacks, home to many Black South Africans—an extreme contrast to the oceanfront estates of Camps Bay or the luxury condos overlooking the V&A Waterfront. With national unemployment between 33% and 40%, the road to economic sustainability is long.

As we sit in Cape Town International Airport (where, unfortunately, there is no Star Alliance Lounge), our ten-week adventure is coming to an end. Thankfully, through these blog posts, we’ll always have a record of the incredible experiences we’ve had.

Now, we face a 16-hour flight back to Newark—where we’ll experience a 60-degree drop in temperature. Time to start planning our next adventure.