We are sitting in Queenstown Airport, waiting for our flight to Melbourne. This was Jane’s second visit to New Zealand and my first trip to this stunning country. New Zealand is green, clean, and breathtakingly beautiful. The lushness of the landscape is hard to describe. Mountains and valleys are filled with trees, wild flowers (lupins), green pastures, and sheep (25 million of them). The snowcapped glaciers are awe-inspiring, and the lakes we saw shimmered with radiant teal hues. And did I mention how clean it is? Spotless.
After spending the weekend at Mt. Cook, we drove three hours to Queenstown, arriving Monday afternoon. We checked into our Airbnb and headed down a steep hill into the town center. Dinner at Smiths Craft Beer House was unremarkable, but we stopped at a supermarket afterward for breakfast supplies and a six-pack of Mac’s Gold Lager.
Tuesday greeted us with glorious weather. We walked through Queenstown Gardens along the shores of Lake Wakatipu. A highlight of the day was trying the famous Fergburger, which is like a mix of In-N-Out and Shake Shack with a delicious unique sauce. The 45-minute wait was worth every second.
In the afternoon, we boarded the TSS Earnslaw for a 45-minute steamship ride to Walter Peak. During the cruise, the captain pointed out that we were at the 45th parallel, halfway between the equator and the South Pole.
At Walter Peak we visited a working sheep farm, watched a sheep-shearing demonstration, and admired a Shorthair Border Collie herding sheep. This brought back memories of our late dog, Carmen, a Border Collie-Australian Shepherd mix. We felt a special connection to the dog and her impressive skills. Visiting Walter’s Peak, we were disappointed not to find any worthwhile swag bearing the name.
Back in Queenstown, we enjoyed an outstanding meal at Momentos By The Lake. I had a delicious white fish, and Jane had one of the best beet salads she’s ever eaten, paired with mussels.
On Wednesday, we visited Arrowtown, a charming former gold-mining village about 30 minutes from Queenstown. In the afternoon, we rode the Skyline Gondola for spectacular views of Queenstown and the surrounding mountains and lakes. For dinner, we opted for a casual meal from a fancy market, which we enjoyed back at our Airbnb.
Thursday morning, we set out on a four-hour drive to Milford Sound. The journey itself was incredible. Highlights included Eglinton Valley, a massive glacial-carved expanse, Kaka Creek Lookout, and Monkey Creek. We drove through Homer Tunnel—a steep downhill and narrow one-way passage that Jane wasn’t thrilled about—and stopped for a walk in The Chasm, a beech forest with a cascading waterfall.
At Milford Sound, we took a walk along the shore before boarding Cruise Milford for a breathtaking tour of Fiordland National Park. The fiords were magnificent, the water stunning, and the seals adorable. We even met a family from Sussex County, Delaware—our home turf.
On our return, we made stops at Gertrude Valley, Falls Creek, and Lake Gunn before reaching Te Anau. Unfortunately, dinner at a Mexican restaurant there was uninspiring.
To redeem our culinary experience, we had an excellent breakfast Friday morning at Kea Cafe before heading to Wānaka, a three-hour drive. The route included a winding mountain road where we ascended above the clouds. A highlight was our stop at Cardrona Distillery, where we enjoyed a 90-minute tour and tasting of two whiskies, gin, vodka, and two liqueurs. It was fantastic.
Once in Wānaka, we walked along Lake Wānaka and explored the town. Determined to erase the memory of the previous night’s meal, we gave Mexican another shot at Amigos—and this time, it was superb.
This morning, we had our best breakfast of the trip at Ritual, featuring Montreal Benedict—poached eggs with salmon and spinach atop a potato pancake. The lattes were excellent. After another walk along the lake, we started our drive back to Queenstown. Along the way we stopped at Mt. Rosa Winery in Gibbston Valley for a wine tasting. The Pinot Gris was our favorite.
Back in Queenstown, we strolled around in a drizzle and treated ourselves to ice cream at Patagonia.
After spending a little over two weeks in New Zealand, we’ve come to appreciate the sheer variety and beauty this country offers. Though the North Island has its charms, the South Island is where the real magic happens. The Kiwis (yes, they really do call themselves that) were universally kind and welcoming. One unexpected highlight: New Zealand has the most amazing public bathrooms—automated doors and incredibly clean facilities.
Our time in New Zealand was unforgettable, and we are looking forward to our next adventure in Australia.
Postscript: We landed in Melbourne at 9:00 pm and got to the Le Meridien at 10:00. The hotel is a block from China Town where we had a late meal of steamed dumplings.
Traveling Walters 